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The beef tartare on a black ceramic plate with smoked salmon roe and Valencia almonds is topped by stylish pumpkin triangles filled with cloudberry cream. With a mushroom broth poured over it to bind it all together, it becomes a pure umami dream. At a safe distance above the locks, building excavators and bulldozers currently hacking up Slussen, Gondolen remains impervious. Brittle tubes of dried black garlic on a bed of charred garlic peel are mesmerizing and, with a hidden filling of freshly picked greens, it is as much an exercise in texture as taste, where soft and chewy meet fresh and crunchy. Under the sea creature there are nice pieces of ginger-scented Iberico cheek, sprinkles of crispy potatoes and a layer of cool cucumber slices. Another example is the decadent lobster and vinegary fennel in a light bath of clear and assertive lobster broth.

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The wine list is impressive both in breadth and depth, and the staff know how to match drinks and food, but sometimes this gets rushed over.

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Here the variegated wallpaper converses with the floorboards creating a narrative that sets the imagination reeling. Come on time, because everyone eats in the same sitting. The premises have been freshened up, the gold details seem to glisten a little more than before, and the atmosphere seems to crackle on those evenings that Bifångst is open. Served in a wooden box with four kinds of bread on straw, the bread serving is a dish in itself. The beef tartare on a black ceramic plate with smoked salmon roe and Valencia almonds is topped by stylish pumpkin triangles filled with cloudberry cream.

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Comments

  • Will 25 days ago

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  • Cesar 4 days ago

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  • Vicente 6 days ago

    Do you have anymore from this series?